A gift.

Batik from India

Wednesday, December 7, 2011

share a square blanket

chain 4 and join to form loop
Rd 1 chain 3 (counts as first dc) 2 dc, ch 2, * 3 dc, ch 2* 3 times join to first ch 3
Rd 2 chain 3 (counts as first dc) *dc in each dc (3 st total), in ch 2 sp for corner, 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc* 3 times
Rd 3 and all other rounds start with 3 ch counting as first dc, dc in each dc and 2 dc 2 ch 2 dc in each corner
To change color simply end first color at end of round, join the new color anywhere ( I like to do it in a different spot than where I ended to make working in te ends less noticable) following pattern.
For pictures of blankets I've made with this pattern
Baby Clouds Blankets (read

Monday, December 5, 2011

Soccosins

Sole Use Double Knitting Wool and 3.5mm hook.
Ch 19 slightly loosely.
Remember to work in the back loops.
Round 1 (wrong side):  1dc into 2nd ch from hook, 16dc, 3dc in last ch. Do not turn, work down other side of chain, 16dc, 2dc in same ch as first dc of round, sj. TURN. (38dc)
Round 2: 1ch, 1 dc in first st, 2dc in next st, 16dc, (2dc in next st) x 3, 16dc, 2dc in next st, 1 dc in next st (the same space as the first dc of the rnd), sj. TURN. (44dc)
Round 3: 1ch, 44dc, sj in top of first dc of round, TURN. (44dc)
Round 4: 1ch, (2dc in next st) x 3, 16dc, (2dc in next st) x 6, 16dc, (2dc in next st) x 3, sj. TURN. (56 dc)
Round 5: 1ch, 56dc, sj. TURN. (56dc)
Round 6: 1ch, (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st) x 3, 16dc, (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st) x 6, 16dc, (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st) x 3, sj. TURN. (68 dc)
Side of Foot Rounds 7 to 11 inclusive: 1ch, 68dc, sj. TURN. (68 dc)
Instep
Round 12: 1ch, 26dc, dec 8, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, cg, 25 dc, sj. TURN.
Round 13: 1ch, 34dc, cg, 25dc, sj. TURN. (60dc)
Round 14: 1ch, 22dc, dec 8, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, cg, 21 dc, sj. TURN.
Round 15: 1ch, 30dc, cg, 21dc, sj. TURN. (52dc) Ballet Slipper Stage complete.
Round 16: 1ch, 18dc, dec 8, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, cg, 17 dc, sj. TURN.
Round 17: 1ch, 26dc, cg, 17dc, sj. TURN. (44dc) Slipper Stage complete.
Round 18: 1ch, 14dc, dec 8, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, cg, 13 dc, sj. TURN.
Round 19: 1ch, 22dc, cg, 13dc, sj. TURN. (36dc) Soccasin Stage complete.
Cuff 1 is joined down the left side of the foot (looking down on it with the toe pointing away from you)
Remember to work in the back loops. 12ch.
Row 1: dc into back loop of second ch from hook, 9 dc, jdc, ss into next st on side of foot. TURN.
Row 2: 11dc.
Row 3: Insert hook from far-side to near-side in front loop of last dc worked (as it faces you). Turn the work clockwise. Yoh and pull through one loop on hook, yoh and pull through both loops on hook. 9 dc, 1jdc, ss into next st on side of foot. TURN.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have done 18 rows (you will be at the centre front of the foot). Fasten off and leave a tail to weave in at the end.
Cuff 2 is joined down the right side of the foot (looking down on it with the toe pointing away from you)
Row 1: Join in new yarn in the next free dc to the right of the centre back. Work 11 dc into 'back ridge' of beginning chain so that an outline stitch line is made up the centre back.
Rows 2 and 3 are like 3 and 2 for Cuff 1 but when you work into the dcs on the side of the foot you will work into the front loops as they face you. This will make the join symmetrical with the first half of the cuff.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have worked 18 rows. TURN. Join first three sts at bottom of cuff split together by slip stitching through the back loops on Cuff 2 and the front loops on Cuff 1. Fasten off and leave a tail to weave in at the end.
Cuff Trim Remember to work in the back loops.
Round 1: Join yarn at centre back of cuff and work around left side (if looking down on the foot with the toe pointing away from you). 1dc for each ridge and 1 dc for each valley to next corner - being careful to pick up just 1 thread at the top edge to prevent holes in the work. End on a valley. In same stitch work 1ch, 1dc (so that corner st has 1dc, 1ch, 1dc worked into it).
Work down split in cuff: 7 dc, 2ss (the 2nd ss goes where you joined the 3 sts at the bottom of the cuff split).
Work up the other side of the split in the cuff: 2ss (the 1st ss goes where joined the 3sts at the bottom of the cuff split), 7dc.
(1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into top of first ridge, work 1dc for each valley and 1dc for each ridge to the end of the round, sj in first dc of the round. TURN.
Round 2: 1ch, 1dc in each st to corner, in corner ch work (1dc, 1ch, 1dc).
For split in cuff: 8dc, ss, skip 2 sts, ss, 8dc.
(1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in corner ch, 1dc in each st to end of round. Break thread and join invisibly to first dc of the round. Tidy away all ends.
The Sock is joined down the left side of the foot (looking down on it with the toe pointing away from you)
It is important that you keep your slip stitches an even size. It is very easy to do them progressively tighter and tighter. Aim to give each ss the whole amount of thread required to go around the hook.
With the soccasin right side out fold the cuff completely down to expose, below where the cuff was attached, a line of loops at the top of the last ridge. You will attach the sock into these loops.
Use 4-ply baby yarn and a 3mm hook.
Attach the yarn at centre back (leaving a tail to tidy away later) and do 26 ch slightly loosely. TURN. If you want a longer or shorter sock change the starting chain.
Row 1: 1ss into the top loop of the 2nd ch from the hook, 24ss into the top loops of the chain, ss into the next loop on the inside of the foot, TURN.
Row 2: Skip the ss you did to join to the inside of the foot, 25ss through the back loops, 1ch, TURN.
Row 3: Do not skip 1st ss, 25ss through the backloops, ss into the next loop on the inside of the foot, TURN. Be careful not to the first ss of the row too tightly - you are going to be working into it on the way back.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 all the way around.
After you have done a few rows check that, when viewed from the outside, the beginning chain has the bottom half of the 'right side' of the chain facing outwards, not the bumpy back of the chain. If the bumps are facing outward you have joined incorrectly at the end of your first row and will not be able to get a really nice seam at the end.
After a few rows turn the whole soccasin inside out it will be easier to join in the sock. A couple of rows before you have gone all the way around turn it the right way out again.
When you have gone all the way around and have just done a Row 3 you will finish by doing a ss under the free bottom loops of your beginning chain where two loops cross and the corresponding back loop of your last row to make the final seam. Make sure you do go under two threads of the beginning chain and not just one.
Fasten off and tidy away all ends.

Make yourself another one to match and enjoy.
You might like to play with stripes on these soccasins - the socks especially will look effective because the stripes will be vertical (and so easy to do).
Have a little play with the sock. Isn't that beautifully elastic? It looks like a gorgeous 1x1 knitted ribbing but is much more elastic than any rib I've ever knitted, even crossed or 2x2. If you are a knitter you might like to consider substituting it for the usual knitted cuff on a sleeve.


Mary-Jane Style Instructions

Back Ridge: To work in the back ridge means to work through just the bump on the back of the chain. You turn the chain towards you to access it. Fasten off at the end of the Slipper Stage of the Soccasin pattern.
Right Strap
Remember to work in the Back Loops unless otherwise instructed.
Row 1: Rejoin yarn 13 sts from the centre back on the right-hand side, 26dc, ch13. Turn. Adjust for length of strap here as you need.
Row 2: 1dc in Back Ridge of 2nd ch from hook and next 11 ch, 1dc in back loop of each st to end. Turn.
Row 3: 1dc in each stitch to end, 4ch, ss to bottom of the ch you did on Row 1 for the strap. Adjust these ch if you need for this button loop depending on the size of button you have.
Fasten off and tidy away ends.
Left Strap
Remember to work in the Back Loops unless otherwise instructed.
Fasten off at the end of the Slipper Stage of the Soccasin pattern.
Row 1: Ch 17, adjust length of strap if you need. The first 5 ch are used for the button loop so adjust for this now also depending on the size of your button. Starting 13 sts from the centre back on the right-hand side, 26dc. Turn.
Row 2: 1dc in each st until you reach the ch, 1dc in Back Ridge of each ch until 5 ch remain. Turn.
Row 3: 1dc in first st, remove hook, insert hook in 1st ch made on Row 1 and pull loop from the last dc through, 1dc in each st to end.
Fasten off and tidy away ends. Attach buttons of your choice.
Mary Jane Sock Top:
The sock is joined down the left side of the foot (looking down on it with the toe pointing away from you)
It is important that you keep your slip stitches an even size. It is very easy to do them progressively tighter and tighter. Aim to give each ss the whole amount of thread required to go around the hook.
With the slipper right side out fold the strap down to expose, below where it was attached, a line of loops at the top of the last ridge on the inside of the slipper. You will attach the sock into these loops.
Use 4-ply baby yarn and a 3mm hook.
Attach the yarn at centre back (leaving a tail to tidy away later) and do 26 ch slightly loosely. TURN. If you want a longer or shorter sock change the starting chain.
Row 1: 1ss into the top loop of the 2nd ch from the hook, 24ss into the top loops of the chain, ss into the next loop on the inside of the foot, TURN.
Row 2: Skip the ss you did to join to the inside of the foot, 25ss through the back loops, 1ch

Wednesday, November 30, 2011

neck warmer

EMERGENCY ROOM SCARF

American crochet terms.

Yarn - DK weight
Crochet hook - H

V stitch - dc, ch 1, dc in same stitch

Shell stitch - 5 dc in same stitch


CH 17.

Row 1: Dc in 5th ch from hook. Skip next 2 ch, shell in next ch, skip 2 ch, V-stitch in next ch, skip 2 ch, shell in next ch, skip 2 ch, V-stitch in last ch. Ch 3, turn.

Row 2: 2 dc in first V-stitch, V-stitch in top of next shell, shell in next V-stitch, V-stitch in top of next shell. 3 dc in last V-stitch. Ch 4, turn.

Row 3: Dc in same stitch (counts as a V-stitch), shell in next V-stitch, V-stitch in next shell, shell in next V-stitch. V-stitch in top of ch from previous row. Ch 3, turn.

Repeat row 2 and 3 till you reach desired length.

Finish off, weave in ends.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

You can use any size yarn, just adjust the crochet hook to match.

Have fun with this.

Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Lion brand leg warmers

LEG WARMER
Lower Ribbing

With smaller hook and A, ch 6.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across - 5 sc.
Rows 2-23 (27, 31): Ch 1, turn, working in back loops only, sc in each sc across; change to B in last st of last row.
Leg
Change to larger hook.
Rnd 1: With B and larger hook; pivot to work in ends of rows along edge, ch 2, work 24 (28, 32) hdc evenly spaced along edge; join with sl st in top of beginning ch.
Rnd 2: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each hdc around; join with sl st in top of turning ch; change to C in joining sl st.
Note: Continue in Color Sequence throughout.
Rnds 3-6 (8, 8) Rep last rnd, continuing in Color Sequence.
Rnd 7 (9, 9) (Increase): Ch 2, turn, *hdc in first 5 (6, 7) sts, 2 hdc in next st; rep from * around; join with sl st in top of turning ch - 28 (32, 36) sts.
Rnds 8 (10, 10)-16 (18, 18): Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st around; join with sl st in top of turning ch.
Rnd 17 (19, 19) (Increase): Ch 2, turn, *hdc in first 6 (7, 8) sts, 2 hdc in next st; rep from * around; join with sl st in top of turning ch - 32 (36, 40) sts.
Rnd 18 (20, 20): Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st around; join with sl st in top of turning ch. Rep last rnd until there are a total of 18 (24, 30) rnds or 1 1/2 in. (4 cm) less than desired length. Fasten off.
Top Ribbing
Note:
Sc worked in rows and through the back loop only, forms the top ribbing. The rows are joined to the top (last rnd) of the Leg with sl sts as work proceeds. From RS with smaller hook, join B in first st of last rnd of leg, ch 6.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, sl st in next hdc of last rnd of leg - 5 sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in back loop of each sc across.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in back loop of each sc across, skip next hdc of last rnd of leg, sl st in next hdc of last rnd of leg.
Rep last 2 rows until top ribbing has been worked around entire top edge of leg. Working through both thicknesses, sl st through ch-6 foundation ch and last row of top ribbing to close seam. Fasten off.
FINISHING
Sew lower ribbing seam. Weave in ends.

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

leg warmers

  Leg Warmers        
Convert this to knit EASY Crochet
These leg warmers will be most appreciated in the dead of winter when temperatures plummet and winds wail, but be sure to have them crocheted and ready to wear. 
Directions are given for size 9-11.  You will need two 4 ounce, skeins of 4 ply yarn and sizes I and K crochet hooks.
Gauge: 3 hdc equal 1 inch
Starting at lower edge with smaller ,hook, ch 30, join with sl st to form ring, ch 2, do not turn.
Row 1: Sc in each ch, join with sl st in top of ch-2, ch 2, do not turn.
Rows 2 through 8: Repeat Row 1.
Row 9: With larger hook, ch 2, hdc in each sc across, join with sl st in top of ch-2, ch 2, turn.

Thursday, November 17, 2011

Peanut Butter Cookies

PEANUT BUTTER COOKIES
1 cup Peanut Butter
1 cup Sugar and 1 Egg.
Bake at 350 for about 10 minutes...YOU ARE GONNA LOVE 'EM

Tuesday, November 15, 2011

Plarn bag

Chain 32.

Rnd 1
Hdc in 2nd ch from hook in each chain.
Continue to the corner end st, work 2 Hdc in end st. Continue around and down the back side of chain by working a Hdc in every stitch of chain, work 2 Hdc in end st.
Rnd 2
Hdc in each st down to first end. Work 2 Hdc in the 2 end sts, and then Hdc in ea st down to other end. Work 2 Hdc in ea of the 2 end sts. Do not connect at end of rounds, just continue working Hdc in ea st to create a seamless bag.
Rnd 3
Hdc in each st down to first end. Work 2 Hdc in the 3 end sts, and then Hdc in ea st down to other end. Work 2 Hdc in ea of the 3 end sts.
Rnd 4 – 30
Hdc in ea st around entire bag. End so at side of bag to begin flap.
Row 1 (Flap)
Ch 2, turn. Hdc in ea st across back of bag only to create flap.
(Crochet less one st on either side of back to bag to create a smooth flap overlay.)
Row 2 – 15
Ch 2, turn. Hdc in ea st across for flap. ( I did 15 rows before dec’s to create a tapered flap.)
Row 16 – 26
Ch 2, turn. Work 2 Hdc together over next sts (1 dec made) then Hdc in ea st to lasts 2 sts of row. Work 2 Hdc together over last 2 sts to create one dec.
Row 27
Ch 2, turn. Work Hdc in ea st. Finish off and weave under ends.
Edging
With right side facing and using J hook, attach plarn with a sl st to right side of upper edge of flap.
Sc evenly around complete edge of flap to create smooth edge. Finish off.
Strap: (edited 07/25/08 to clarify strap beginning)
Using N hook, start strap at side of bag by joining plarn with sl st with right side facing out 6 sts from flap. Sc across top edge of bag in the next 5 sts (toward flap.) *Ch 2, turn. Work Hdc in ea of the 6 sts.* Repeat between *until strap is 42” long. (Make sure your strap is straight and not twisted.)
End so your strap can be attached to other side of bag. Working from the inside Sc in ea of the 6 sts across the top edge of bag at opposite side to attached strap. This way your work doesn’t show the attaching of sts.
On the outside press down to flatten your strap attaching sts so it lays flat.
Leave long your end so you can reinforce your attaching sts of the strap by intertwining through your attaching sts to strengthen.
Finish off and weave under ends.
Attach a velcro strip under flap if desired.
If you have any questions or find discrepancies in this pattern, please email me using contact tab above.
Abbreviations:
Ch – Chain
Dec – Decrease
Ea – Each
Hdc – Half Double Crochet
Rnd – Round
Sc – Single Crochet
Sl St – Slip Stitch
Sk – Skip
Sm – Same
Sp – Space
St – Stitch
Rnd – Round
This pattern is copyrighted by Cindy of My Recycled Bags {dot com} and may only be used for private individual use. No commercial sales or use is permitted. Links to this pattern are acceptable. ©2008

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Crocheted Christmas stocking





MATERIALS:
1 Boye® Crochet Hook Size H (#6218-H)
1 Boye® Crochet Hook Size I (#6218-I)
1 3 oz. Red Heart Super Saver 4-ply Knitting Worsted Weight Yarn (Green)
1 3 oz. Red Heart Super Saver 4-ply Knitting Worsted Weight Yarn (Red)
4 1/2" Tinsel Pompoms by Fibre Craft
INSTRUCTIONS:
(Gauge: 7 sts=2", 6 rows=2")

  • With red yarn and H hook, ch 24. Ch 1 for a t-ch.
  • Row 2: Sc in 3 sts with t-ch as fourth st, attach green with loop becoming first st, and sc in 3 more sts, (carry opposite color along and work stitches over top) *4 sc using red, 4 sc using green and rep from * across row. Ch 1 & turn.
  • Row 3: Work 4 sc using green, 4 sc using red, across row, ch 1 & turn.
  • Repeat rows 2 & 3 three times.Toe Shaping
  • Row 10: Work across row and sl st last stitch, ch 1 & turn.
  • Row 11: Skip first st and work across row in pattern. Ch 1 & turn.
  • Row 12: Work across to st 15, ch 1 & turn.
  • Row 13 thru 20: Work even in pattern. End work.
  • Make 1 more.
  • Sew together, leaving top open and matching colors when sewing in large areas. Tuck in ends and turn right side out (both sides are the same).Trim
  • Attach white yarn at back, top edge. Ch 1 & hdc in each stitch around top (32 sts).
  • Row 2: Hdc around row, ch 2 & turn.
  • Row 3 thru 9: Rep row 2, ch 2 & turn.Edging
  • Row 10: Change to H hook. From inside cuff, * ch 2, sc in next st, ch 3, sc in next st. Repeat from * around row. End work.
  • Turn cuff. Plain edge can be used for more masculine look by continuing hdc for another row.Hanging Loop
  • With I hook, sc a chain with red yarn about 2" long, end work and insert into back edge of cuff and tie bow under cuff, to hang.Tie
  • Holding green and red yarn together, using I hook, leave long tails, about 8", ch 32 to 38 sts. Starting at front center of cuff, or wherever you prefer bow, weave in and out on second row above edging, leaving ends out to tie in bow as shown.
  • Twist red & green ties and glue red pompom on ends and tack in place.
  • Enjoy!

Wednesday, October 12, 2011

Jam jar candle holder


10/11/2011
1. Chain 30
2. 30SC. Attach the last SC to the first SC with a slip stitch.
3. Chain 2 (this counts as 1DC). Make 1DC in the same SC as you made the chain 2 in. Chain 1, skip one SC, do 2DC in the next SC. Repeat around. Attach last chain to the top of the 2nd chain of the start of this row. 
4. Chain 2 (this counts as 1DC), chain 2, 1DC in opening between the 22DC's of the previous row, chain 2, 1DC etc.
5. Repeat row 3.
6. Repeat row 4.
Etc.
When you reach the top of the jar, finish with 2 rows of SC's.

Thursday, September 8, 2011

Crochetec slippers

Crocheted Soccasins by Megan Mills
Experience Level: Experienced or Adventurous
Size: Approximately 14 cm long and 11cm tall with the sock folded down as illustrated.
Materials
2 x 50g balls of brown double knitting wool
1 x 50g ball of cream 4-ply baby wool
3.5mm crochet hook (or size to acquire gauge)
3mm crochet hook (or size to acquire gauge)
Wool needle to tidy away ends
Gauge on Foot section
From the top of one ridge to the top of the 3rd ridge above it (measuring 4 ridge lines) is 2.2cm.
10 stitches is 4.5cm
Gauge on Sock section
Unstretched 5 rows (which will look like three lines of Vs) is 1cm. 10 stitches is 3.5cm.

Abbreviations
chchain
cgclose the gap - see Notes below
dcdouble crochet (US single crochet)
decdecrease = (insert hook in next st and draw through a loop) x 2, yoh, draw through all loops on hook.
jdcjoining double crochet (US single crochet) - see Notes below.
ssslip stitch
sjspecial join - see Notes below
spspace
ststitch
xtimes
yohyarn over hook

Special Notes
Check at the end of each round that you have the right number of stitches.
Work into the back loops of all stitches and chains unless instructed otherwise.
Always turn clockwise as viewed from looking down on your work.
The back ridge is the line of bumps on the back of a chain, as opposed to the smooth chain on the front.
When you have turned and started a new round do not skip the first dc, work into it.
The foot is worked in rounds but you turn after joining each round using a Special Join:
This manoeuvre takes a lot of words to describe but is quick to do. It moves the working yarn from one side of the work to the other. When you turn and work you will get a much tidier result than the usual method.
1. Insert hook under both loops of first dc of the round and pull through a loop.
2. Withdraw hook from that loop.
3. Leaving a little of the working yarn loose in the back bring working yarn under hook between the dropped loop and the loop on the hook.
4. Reinsert the hook in the dropped loop and pull that loop through the other loop on the hook.
5. Holding the loose working yarn at the back firmly pull up the modified slip stitch you have just done very firmly so it is tiny.
6. Pull on the loose yarn at the back to firm up the loop on the hook.
7. Pull on the working yarn at the front to pull all the loose yarn through.
A video demonstration of this special join is available here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5gkHQ22M4M
or if you are viewing this pattern online then the video is embedded below:

Sunday, September 4, 2011

Crochet Tea light holders

Crochet Hook: E/4 or 3.5 mm hook
Yarn Weight: (4) Medium Weight/Worsted Weight and Aran (16-20 stitches to 4 inches)
Pattern:
Chain 2 then do the 6 sc into 2nd chain from hook
Round 1: Work 6 sc in first ch.
Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around - 12sc
Round 3: *2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, rep from * around- 18sc
Round 4: *2sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, rep from * around -24 sc
Round 5: *2sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, rep from * around -30sc
Round 6: *sc in back loop only in each sc around -30sc
Round 7: *sc2tog in next sc, sc in next sc, rep from * around-20 sc
Rounds 8-10 sc in each sc. - 20 sc

Petals
:
Round 1: Working in front loop only of Round 6, sc in any sc, *ch2 skip st, sc in next sc, rep from * around, join last st with sl st.
Round 2: In 1st 2ch loop *(sc, 2ch, 1tr, 3dtr, 1tr, 2ch,sc) sc in next 2 ch loop rep from * around. - 8 petals
Round 3 (picot edge): sc in next 3 sts, *all in next st (point of petal)-(sc, 2ch, sc), sc in next 7 sts rep from * around.
Sew in ends.

Friday, August 26, 2011

Joy and freedom

Conquering any difficulty always gives one a secret joy, for it means pushing back a boundary-line. and adding to one's liberty.
~ Henri Frédéric Amiel

Monday, August 15, 2011

sock monkey bottle holder 8/15/11

R : 1 - With White yarn, Ch 3, 10 dc, in the 2nd ch from the hook, join in a circle, ch 3

R : 2 - 2 dc in each dc, join, ch 3

R : 3 - 1 dc in each dc, join,

R : 4 - Change to Red yarn, ch 3, 1 dc in each dc, join

R : 5 - change to the Sock Monkey brown yarn, ch 3, 1 dc in each dc, join, ch 3

R : 6-8 - Repeat R - 5  (For larger bottles add rows here)

R : 9 - 1 dc in each dc, join

R : 10 - Change to red yarn, ch 3, 1 dc in each dc,

R : 11 - Change to White yarn, ch 3,1 dc in each dc, join ch 3

R : 12 - 1 dc in each dc, join,

R : 13 - We will be forming the handles on this row- 1 hdc in each dc around, join, then ch 30 ( more if you want a longer handle) attach to the opposite side of the cozy with a sc, sc in the st next to were you attached, sc back across the handle, and attach to the st next to were you first began your ch, turn and sc back across the handle again, and attach with a sl st. Weave in your end securely .

Eyes:

With Black yarn, ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from the hook, 7 sc to form a circle, join. Place and sew on fron of cozy.

Mouth:

With Red yarn, ch 7, sc all the way around to form another oval, change to white yarn and sc around the red oval loosely, attach to the front of the Cozy with matching yarn.

Ears:  Make 2

With Brown yarn, ch 3, 2 dc in the 2nd ch from the hook, 8 dc in the same hole to form a circle, fasten off, place and sew on sides of cozy.


Pom pom - Optional - I left it off.

Wrap yarn around your three middle fingers about 25 to 30 times. Cut about a 8 inch piece of matching yarn and push it through the whole and tie tightly. Trim loops evenly to form the pom pom. Attach to center of the front of cozy.

Monday, April 11, 2011

Lovella's Paska

  • 2 tablespoons active dry yeast
  • 1 cup warm water
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  1. In a large bowl, put your yeast, sugar and warm water. Let sit 10 minutes. .if it hasn't poofed up . . either your yeast is old, or dead . ..if that happens, start again. There is no point in going on without nice poofy yeast.
  • 1 medium lemon
  • 1 medium orange
  1. Take your citrus and peel it very thin. I use a vegetable peeler. You don't want to use any of the white part of the peel. Put the thinly sliced peel in the blender.
  2. Once you have removed and discarded the white pith of the citrus.. .chop your lemon and orange . .removing all the seeds. Add the chopped lemon and orange to the blender.
  • 1 1/4 cup milk
  • 1/2 cup of real butter
  1. In a microwave safe bowl, heat the butter and milk until the butter melts. .or do it in a saucepan on the stove.
  2. Once it is melted .. .add it to the blender. Start the blender .. and begin to puree.
  • 2 large eggs
  • 3/4 cup sugar
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  1. Start the blender on high and allow the citrus, peel and milk, butter mixture to run for about 2 or 3 minutes.
  2. Add the eggs, sugar and salt.
  3. Continue to run the blender for another minute or two until very smooth.
  4. Measure the milk/citrus and sugar mixture. . it should be about 4 1/2 cups. If you have a bit more or less that is fine. .you will just adjust the flour likewise.
  5. Pour the mixture, along with the yeast mixture into a large bowl .. or the bowl of your kitchen machine, which has a dough hook.
  6. Add flour. . .one cup at a time until you have a smooth soft dough .. .it will be sticky. I think about 7 cups of flour should be right. . but it will depend on the size of your eggs and the size of your lemon and orange. With a plastic bowl . .it is easy to tell when the dough has enough flour because it will stop sticking to the side of the bowl ..but with a metal bowl you really do need to stop the mixer often and touch your dough before adding additional flour. It really is best to stop the machine once it is getting close. . and knead the last bit of flour by hand. . .a little at a time until it is smooth. Do not add more than 7 1/2 cups flour. . allow it to remain sticky. If you measured the milk mixture and had 4 1/2 cups. .7 cups of flour will be enough. . .sticky but enough.
  7.  I am going to add this info now for 2010 readers. . . . The amount of flour is a guide. .if your dough is still super sticky add a little more flour a dusting at a time. Look at the picture in the collage of my dough .. .that is how it should look. It should be able to hold its shape. There will be several factors in how your dough could be different than mine. . .the flour you purchase or how you fill your cup of flour. . I scoop and shake to level. Or. . it could be that you have slightly more liquid. Dont' despair if you think it is still too sticky. . .go slow. . add a dusting more. .turn the dough on the counter and knead until you are out of flour again. .and then give it another dusting and continue this way until. . .it looks like mine in the picture. . .I hope this helps. . I really do.
  8. After kneading it by hand or with the machine for about 8 - 10 minutes. . .transfer to a large bowl, cover with plastic wrap, a tea towel and allow to rise until doubled. This should take about an hour. .to an hour and a half.
  9. At this point, give it a bit of a punch down and let rest at least 10 minutes or up to another hour.
  10. During this time prepare your pans. I spray mine with Pam. Make loaves and let rise until doubled in bulk .. .or about an hour to an hour and a half.
  11. Preheat the oven to 350 F. Bake the loaves about 20 minutes. .but again it totally depends on the size of your pans.
  12. Allow to cool on cooling racks. . I put them in the freezer unless we are eating them the same day . .
Paska Icing
  • 1 cup of soft real butter
  • 4 egg whites (keep in mind that  young children, pregnant women and people with compromised immue systems should avoid raw egg whites). ..I found egg white powder this year that is pasteurized.
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla
  • enough icing sugar to make a soft icing. It will harden again in the fridge.
  1. Beat all together until light and smooth....and spread on each slice .. .and sprinkle with colored sugar.

Sunday, April 3, 2011

Meme going around.

Age –LXXIII

Bed size –  Queen
Chore you hate –If it's called a chore I hate it. Now If it's called art, I don't hate any of it.

Dogs –Love the grand dogs
Essential start of your day – Sticking my head outside for a breath of fresh with my morning coffee.

Favorite color – Whatever is included in a sunset.

Gold or silver –  My weddings ring is the only gold I have, along with a golden anniversary.
Height –5'4" again. Before knee surgery about 5'3". I was sinking fast.

Instruments I play (or have played) –Violin, first violin, in the high school orchestra and again after brush up lessons in 2004 with Suzuki. Me and the 4 year olds.

Job title – Memory Keeper. Retired R.N.

Kids – 1 set twin daughters now in heaven, 4 daughters 2 sons and 11 grands and  grand-son-in-law.

Live

Mom’s name

Nickname

Overnight hospital stays

Pet peeve – 

Quote from a movie – "Frankly, Scarlet, I don't give a damn."

Right or left-handed – 
Siblings

Time you wake up –When the daylight shines through my bedroom window.
Underwear – Yes, everyday.

Vegetable you dislike – just can’t think of one – possibly gumbo!

What makes you run late – It would be highly unusual for either one of us to ever be late. I know that it is fashionable, but I feel it is not respectful of the other person’s time.  So, if I’m late start worrying and send a search party!

X-rays you have had done – chest, abdominal, ankle, back.  Maybe I should have had my head examined too!

Yummy food you make – Beef Rouladen – my family’s fav!

Zoo animal – Last time I was in a zoo the kids were youngsters! I do love watching all animal shows on National Geographic – does that count?


Sunday, March 13, 2011

Crochetec basket

Chain 2.
1st Row - Make 6 sc in 1st ch.
2nd Row - Working round and round using both loops at top of stitch, make 1 sc in 1st sc, * 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc. Repeat from * around row.
3rd Row - Make 2 sc in every 3rd stitch.
4th Row - Make 2 sc in every 4th stitch.
Continue this way making 1 sc more between the widenings in each successive row until bottom of basket measures 1 3/8 inches or is size desired.
Next Row - Ch 4, 1 dc in last sc, * skip 1 sc, make a group of (1dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in next sc. Repeat from * around row, join in 3rd ch.
Next Row - Ch 4, 1 dc in 1st space, * make a group in next group. Repeat from * around row, join in 3rd ch.
Repeat this row 7 times (or until basket is as deep as desired) making 2 ch in groups in last row, join.
Finish edge by making 1 sc and 5 dc in each group.
In the last row of bottom of basket, in each sc which was skipped make 3 dc, join.
Using both loops at top of stitch, make 1 sc in each dc, join. Break.
To make the handle fasten thread between 2 shells on edge, ch 3, 2 dc in same place, * ch 3, turn, 2 dc around 3 ch of preceding row. Repeat from * until handle is length desired, fasten it to opposite side of basket.
Embroider a flower on each side of basket just below handle.


1 spoonful of sugar to 2 spoonfuls of water to stiffen.




Related Basket Products

Friday, March 11, 2011

AdSense

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Tuesday, February 1, 2011

Face cleansing pads

Finished Size: 2 3/4″ (7 cm) diameter
Materials:
Medium Weight Yarn (small amount)
Note: use cotton yarn for extra absorbency
Crochet Hook J (6.00 mm)
crochet yarn size 4
Gauge: Rounds 1 – 2 in pattern creates a circle 2 3/4″ in diameter
Crochet Pattern: Facial Cleaning Pad
Round 1: ch 4, 12 dc in forth ch from hook, sl st in top of beginning ch-3: 12 dc
Round 2: ch 3, 2 dc in each dc around, sl st in top of beginning ch-3, finish off: 24 dc
If you need help with the crochet instructions, let me know and I’ll be glad to help!

Friday, January 28, 2011

Crocheted heart

Ch 50.
Rnd 1: Dc in 1st 17ch; 
        2dc into 18th & 19th ch.
       Dc in next 13 ch; 
         2dc in next 2 ch; 
        dc in each ch to end. 
       Sl st to top of 1st dc.
Rnd 2: *Ch 4, sl st into every 2nd dc. 
       Repeat from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 3: * Ch 5, sl st into 
       3rd ch from hk to form picot,
        ch 2, sl st into ch 4 space 
         from previous row. 
        Repeat from * to end.

Put heart shape onto ironing board. 
Spray with starch. 
Iron slightly to dry. 
Glue onto blank stationery card.
Put on your own personal message.
 
 
#2 steel hoot, red cotton thread. 

Monday, January 17, 2011

Crocheted tablecloth

Daisy Mercerized Crochet Cotton, Art. 65, Size 20: 27 skeins White; or Lily Mercrochet Mercerized Crochet Cotton, Art. 161, Size 20: 36 balls White; No. 13 Steel Crochet Hook. Size: Each motif measures about 3 1/2 inches. A cloth 60 x 83 inches requires 408 motifs arranged 17 x 24.

Work tightly for best results. 1st Motif: Starting at center, ch 8. Join with sl st to form ring. Rnd 1: Ch 1, 12 sc in ring. Join to 1st sc.
Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in next sc, (ch 9, sk 1 sc, dc in next 2 sc) 3 times, ch 9, join to top of ch-3.
Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in next dc, * (5 dc, ch 3, 5 dc) in next lp, dc in next 2 dc. Repeat from * around. Join to ch-3.
Rnd 4: Sl st in next dc, ch 1, sc in next dc, ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, * ch 5, (sc, ch 6. sc) in corner sp. ch 5, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, (ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc) ** 3 times. Repeat from * around ending at **, ch 2, dc in 1st sc.
Rnd 5: (Ch 5, sc in next lp) twice, * ch 11, dtr in next (corner) lp, ch 11, sc in next lp, (ch 5, sc in next lp) ** 4 times. Repeat from * around ending at **, ch 2, dc in dc at end of last rnd.
Rnd 6: (Ch 5, sc in next lp) twice, * 14 dc in next ch-11 lp, dc in dtr, 14 dc in next lp, sc in next ch-5 lp, ** (ch 5, sc in next lp) 3 times. Repeat from * around ending at **, ch 2, dc in dc at end of last rnd.
Rnd 7: * (Ch 5, sc in next lp) twice, ch 4, sk 4 dc, sl st in next dc, ch 3, dc in same dc, dc in next dc, hdc in next dc, sc in next dc, (ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc) twice, ch 5, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc; (ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc) twice, hdc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, ch 3, sl st at base of last dc; ch 4, sk remaining 4 dc, sc in next lp. Repeat from * around. Join.
Rnd 8: Sl st in 1st 2 ch of next lp, sc in center ch, * ch 5, sc in next lp ch 6, sk ch-3 at start of next shell, sl st in 1st dc, ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next dc, hdc in next hdc, sc in next lp, (ch 5, sc in next lp) 4 times, hdc in hdc of next shell, dc in 2 dc, ch 3, sl st at base of last dc, ch 6, sk ch-4 lp, sc in next ch-5 lp. Repeat from * around. Join to 1st sc.
Rnd 9: Sl st to center st of next lp, ch 8, dc in same st, * ch 6, sk ch-3 at start of next shell, sl st in 1st dc, ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 2 sts, sc in next ch-5 lp, (ch 6, sc in next lp) 3 times, dc in 3 sts of next shell, ch 3, sl st at base of last dc, ch 6, sk ch-6 sp, (dc, ch 5, dc) in center st of next ch-5 lp. Repeat from * around, ending with ch 6, sl st in 3d st of 1st ch-8.
Rnd 10: * In next ch-5 sp make 3 sc, ch 4, sl st in last sc for a p, and 3 sc. Ch 10, sl st in 1st dc of next shell, ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 2 dc, sc in next ch-6 Lp, ch 6, ** (3 tr, ch 7, 3 tr) in next lp, *** ch 6, sc in next lp, dc in 3 dc of shell, ch 3, sl st at base of last dc, ch 10, sk ch-6 lp and repeat from * around. Join to 1st sc, cut with a sewing end, thread to a needle and fasten off on back.
2nd Motif: Repeat 1st Motif to ** in Rnd 10.
3 tr in next lp, ch 3, sl st in one lp of center st of a ch-7 corner lp on 1st Motif, ch 3, 3 tr in same lp on 2d Motif, ch 3, sl st in next lp on 1st Motif, ch 3, sc in next lp on 2d Motif, dc in 3 dc of shell, sl st in 3d dc of shell on 1st Motif, ch 3, sl st at base of last dc, ch 5, sl st in next ch-10 lp on 1st Motif, ch 5, 3 sc in center ch-5 sp on 2d Motif, ch 2, sl st in p on 1st Motif, ch 2, sl st back in last sc, 3 sc in balance of ch-5 sp, ch 5, sl st in next ch-10 lp on 1st Motif, ch 5, sl st in 1st dc on shell on 2d Motif, ch 3, dc in same st, sl st in 1st dc on shell on 1st Motif, dc in next 2 dc on 2d Motif, sc in next lp, ch 3, sl st in next ch-6 lp on 1st Motif, ch 3, 3 tr in corner lp on 2d Motif, ch 3, sl st in one lp of center st of corner lp on 1st Motif, ch 3, 3 tr back in same corner lp on 2d Motif. Complete rnd beg. at *** in Rnd 10 of 1st Motif.
Make 17 rows of 24 motifs, joining adjacent sides as 2d Motif was joined to 1st Motif (where 4 corners meet, join 3d and 4th corners to joining of 1st 2 corners).
Edging:
Rnd 1: Attach to lp at one corner sc in same place, ** (ch 9, sc in same lp) 4 times, * ch 9, sc in next lp, ch 9, sc in corner of next shell, ch 9, sc in next lp, ch 9, sc in next p, ch 9, sc in next lp, ch 9, sc in corner of next shell, ch 9, sc in next ch-6 lp, ch 9, sk 3 tr, sc in next sp, ch 9, sk joining of motifs, sc in next sp; repeat from * to next corner lp; repeat from ** around, ending with ch 4, tr in 1st sc.
Rnd 2: (Ch 9, sc in next lp) repeated around, ending with ch 4, dtr in dtr.
Repeat Rnd 2 twice.
Rnd 5: * Ch 3, 3 tr in next lp, ch 5, sl st in 4th ch from hook for a p, ch 2, 3 tr in same lp, ch 3, sc in next lp; repeat from * around. Join and fasten off.
Stretch and pin tablecloth right-side-down in true shape. Steam and press dry thru a doubled cloth.

 
 
 

teapot cozy




supplies:
  • 8 oz worsted weight yarn
  • Size “G” (4.0 mm) crochet hook
  • Needle for weaving in ends
  • 2 - ¾” Button
Gauge:
First 3 rounds measure 3” across diameter.
Stitches:
Popcorn Stitch – 3 dc in indicated stitch, remove hook from last loop, insert hook in first dc made, reinsert hook in last loop, yo, pull through loops on hook.
Size Info:
This pattern is for an 4-cup teapot cozy with changes for a 6-cup and 8-cup cozy in [ ]’s.
Skill Level:
Beginner
Note: End of row counts are enclosed in –( )-‘s
A BIG Thank you to my testers who worked just as hard as I have to make sure this pattern is free from errors. If you have any problems or find any errors, please email me at anna@lullabiesandlace.com.

Bottom
Rnd 1 – Ch 5, sl st to form ring, ch 2 (counts as first dc), 11 dc in ring, join with sl st to first dc.  –(12 dc)-  Mark as Right Side.
Rnd 2 – Ch 2 (Counts as first dc now and throughout until Rnd 5 of Side), dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, join with sl st to first dc. 
–(24 dc)-
Rnd 3 – Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc, repeat from * around, join with sl st to first dc.  –(36 dc)-
Rnd 4 – Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 2 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, repeat from * around, join with sl st to first dc. 4-cup size only: GO TO SIDE.   
–(48 dc)-
Rnd 5 – Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 3 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 3 dc, repeat from * around, join with sl st to first dc. 6-cup size only: GO TO SIDE. 
–(60 dc)-
Rnd 6 – Ch 2, dc in same st, dc in next 4 dc, *2 dc in next dc, dc in next 4 dc, repeat from * around, join with sl st to first dc.  –(72 dc)-

Side 1
**NOTE: Entire next round worked in BACK LOOPS ONLY**
Rnd 1 – Ch 1, sc in same st, in BLO sc in each dc around, join with sl st to first sc.  –(48, 60, 72 sc)-
Rnds 2-3 – Ch 2, dc in each sc (dc) around, join with sl st to first dc.  –(48, 60, 72 dc)-
Row 4 – Ch 2, dc in next 23 [29, 35] dc, leaving last 24 [30, 36] unworked. 
–(24, 30, 36 dc)-
Rows 5-7 – Ch 2, turn, (Ch 2 does NOT count as first dc through Row 9) dc in each dc across.  –(24, 30, 36 dc)-
Row 8 - Ch 2, turn, dc in same st, *dc dec over next two dc, dc in next dc, repeat from * across with dc in last dc.  –( 17, 21, 25 dc)-
Row 9 – Ch 2, turn, dc in each dc across.  –(17, 21, 25 dc)-
Row 10 – Ch 2, turn (counts as first dc), 3 dc in next dc, remove loop from hook and insert hook in first dc, pick up dropped loop, YO, pull through loops on hook (Popcorn Stitch made), *popcorn stitch in each dc across to last dc, dc in last dc. Fasten off.  –(15, 19, 23 popcorn stitches/2 dc)-

Side 2
Row 4 – Attach yarn with sl st to first dc left unworked from  Row 4 of first side, ch 2, dc in next 23 [29, 35] dc, ch 21.  –(24, 30, 36 dc/21 ch)-
Row 5 – Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 19 ch’s, dc in next dc and in each dc across including first ch-2.  –(24, 30, 36 dc/20 hdc)-
Row 6 – Ch 2, turn, (does NOT count as first dc now through Row 9) dc in each dc across, hdc in next 16 hdc, ch 2, sk 2 hdc, hdc in last 2 hdc.  –(24, 30, 36 dc/18 hdc/2 ch)-
Row 7 – Ch 2, turn, hdc in next 2 hdc, 2 hdc in next ch-2 sp, hdc in next 16 hdc, dc in each dc across.  –(24, 30, 36 dc, 20 hdc)-
Row 8 – Ch 2, turn, dc in same st, *dc dec over next two dc, dc in next dc, repeat from * across with dc in last dc. DO NOT WORK LAST 20 HDC on Row 7.           –(17, 21, 25 dc)-
Rows 9-10 – Repeat Rows 9-10 of Side 1. DO NOT FASTEN OFF.

Trim
Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across top of Side 2, hdc in corner, (ch 31, sl in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, hdc in same corner,) hdc in side of each row around opening to next corner, hdc in corner, repeat in ()’s once, hdc in each st across top of Side 1, repeat in ()’s once, hdc in side of each row around opening to button strip, hdc in each st around button strip with 3 hdc in both corners, hdc up remaining side to corner,  hdc in corner, repeat in ()’s once, join with sl st to first hdc. Fasten off.
Place teapot in cozy and tie up both sides so cozy fits snugly on teapot, insert button strip through handle and measure location for button placement. Attach button.
Weave in Ends.

Sunday, January 16, 2011

Heart video

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Crochet heart

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