Pattern:
Motif (make 24)
Ch 6. Join with ss to form ring.
1st rnd: Ch 7 (counts as 1 dc, 4 ch). Work 1 dc into 5th ch from hook.
(1 dc in ring. Ch 4. 1 dc into top of last dc worked) 7 times. Ss into
3rd ch of beg ch-7.
2nd rnd: Ch 9 (counts as 1 dc, 6 ch). *1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 hdc
in next ch. 1 dc in next ch. 1 tr in each of next 2 ch (triangle made).*
1 dc in next dc. Ch 6. Rep from * to * 7 times. Sl st into 3rd ch of
beg ch-9.
3rd rnd: Ch 8 (counts as 1 tr, 4 ch). 1 sc into tip of Triangle. Ch 4.
(1 tr in dc between 2 Triangles. Ch 4. 1 sc in tip of Triangle. Ch 4) 7
times. Ss into 4th ch of beg ch-8. Ss in first ch-4 sp.
4th rnd: Ch 3. 3 dc in first ch-4 sp. *(Ch 1. 4 dc in next ch-4 sp) 3
times. Ch 3 (corner). 4 dc in next ch-4 sp. Rep from * twice more. (Ch
1. 4 dc in next ch-4 sp) 3 times. Ch 3. Sl st in first dc.
5th rnd: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc). 1 dc in next st. 1 hdc in each of next 2
sts. *(1 sc in next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in each of next 4 sts) twice. 1 sc in
next ch-1 sp. 1 hdc in each of next 2 sts. 1 dc in each of next 2 sts.
(1 dc. 3 tr. 1 dc) in next ch-3 sp.** 1 dc in each of next 2 sts. 1 hdc
in each of next 2 sts. Rep from * twice more, then from * to ** once.
Join with sl st to top of ch-3. Fasten off.
Joining: Sew Motifs tog to form 4 panels of 6 Motifs each. Sew panels tog.
Border: 1st rnd: Join yarn with sl st in any corner st. Ch 1. Work 1
sc in each st and at end of joining rows. Work 3 sc in corners. Sl st in
first sc.
2nd rnd: Ch 1. *1 sc in each of next 3 sc. Ch 3. 1 sc in 3rd ch from
hook (picot made). Miss 1 sc. Rep from * around working 3 sc in corners
and ending with sl st in first sc. Fasten off.
May 31 2012
Thursday, May 31, 2012
Friday, May 11, 2012
Box Bottom tote
With size “K” crochet hook and plarn, Ch 45.
Round 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook. Mark stitch. Sc to end. Mark last stitch. Do not turn, crochet in unworked loops of ch. Work 2 sc in first ch, mark stitches. Sc to end with 2 sc in last ch.
See here for a tutorial for how to crochet in unworked chain loops.
Round 2: Sc in first sc of previous round. Mark as first sc. 1 sc in each sc around.
Repeat Round 2 (11) times.
Round 14: Sc in first 43 sc. *Insert hook around marked stitch of Round 1, YO, pull up a loop. Insert hook into next sc, YO, pull up a loop, YO, draw through all loops on hook.* Repeat between ** two times more. Sc in next 43 stitches. Repeat between ** three times. You will have to work in the first stitch of the round.
Round 15: Sc in next sc. Mark previous stitch as first stitch of round, and consider it the first stitch throughout.
Round 16: Sc in each sc around.
Repeat Round 16 until tote measures 19” from beginning.
For Handles:
Sc in next 16 sc. *Ch 35. Skip next 14 sc. Sc in next 2 sc. Turn, skip next 2 sc, sc in each of 35 ch and next 2 sc. (Turn, sc in 3rd ch from hook and next 36 sc) two times.* Turn, sc in 3rd sc from hook and next 61 sc. Repeat between **. Turn, sc in 3rd sc from hook and next 35 sc. Slip stitch in next 3 sc. Tie off and weave in ends.
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Round 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook. Mark stitch. Sc to end. Mark last stitch. Do not turn, crochet in unworked loops of ch. Work 2 sc in first ch, mark stitches. Sc to end with 2 sc in last ch.
See here for a tutorial for how to crochet in unworked chain loops.
Round 2: Sc in first sc of previous round. Mark as first sc. 1 sc in each sc around.
Repeat Round 2 (11) times.
Round 14: Sc in first 43 sc. *Insert hook around marked stitch of Round 1, YO, pull up a loop. Insert hook into next sc, YO, pull up a loop, YO, draw through all loops on hook.* Repeat between ** two times more. Sc in next 43 stitches. Repeat between ** three times. You will have to work in the first stitch of the round.
Round 15: Sc in next sc. Mark previous stitch as first stitch of round, and consider it the first stitch throughout.
Round 16: Sc in each sc around.
Repeat Round 16 until tote measures 19” from beginning.
For Handles:
Sc in next 16 sc. *Ch 35. Skip next 14 sc. Sc in next 2 sc. Turn, skip next 2 sc, sc in each of 35 ch and next 2 sc. (Turn, sc in 3rd ch from hook and next 36 sc) two times.* Turn, sc in 3rd sc from hook and next 61 sc. Repeat between **. Turn, sc in 3rd sc from hook and next 35 sc. Slip stitch in next 3 sc. Tie off and weave in ends.
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May 11, 2012
Friday, February 17, 2012
Baby Afghan
Starting Chain for 70" wide: Chain 264.
Starting Chain for 92" Wide: Chain 364.
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in ea ch across.
Row 2: ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in each of next 2 sc, * skip 3 sc of previous row, then (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) all in next sc, skip 3 sc of previous row, dc in each of next 3 sc **, repeat the directions between * and ** as many times as needed across the row. Note: See the photo links above for row 2 help, if needed.
Row 3 Photo:
The following photo shows a close-up look at the stitches used in the repeat pattern of Row 3:
Row 3: ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in each of next 2 dc, * ch 3, skip next 3 dc, 3 sc in chain-1 space, ch 3, skip next 3 dc, dc in each of next 3 dc **, repeat the directions between * and ** as many times as needed across the row.
Row 4 Photo:
Row 4: ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in each of next 2 dc,
* skip the ch-3, skip next sc, then (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) all in next sc,
skip next sc, skip the next ch-3, dc in each of next 3 dc **, repeat the directions between * and ** as many times
as needed across the row.
Row 5: Repeat row 3.
Row 6: Repeat row 4.
Additional Rows: Repeat Rows 3 and 4 for pattern, as many times as needed to reach the length that you want for your afghan.
Next to the Last Row: Repeat row 3.
Last Row: ch 1, sc in first dc, sc in each of next 2 dc * 2 sc in ch-3 space, sc in each of next 3 sts ** repeat the directions between * and ** across the row, end the row with 2 sc in last ch-3 space, sc in each of last 3 dc.
End off. Weave in ends.
Starting Chain for 92" Wide: Chain 364.
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in ea ch across.
Row 2: ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in each of next 2 sc, * skip 3 sc of previous row, then (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) all in next sc, skip 3 sc of previous row, dc in each of next 3 sc **, repeat the directions between * and ** as many times as needed across the row. Note: See the photo links above for row 2 help, if needed.
The following photo shows a close-up look at the stitches used in the repeat pattern of Row 3:
Row 3: ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in each of next 2 dc, * ch 3, skip next 3 dc, 3 sc in chain-1 space, ch 3, skip next 3 dc, dc in each of next 3 dc **, repeat the directions between * and ** as many times as needed across the row.
Row 4 Photo:
Row 4: ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in each of next 2 dc,
* skip the ch-3, skip next sc, then (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) all in next sc,
skip next sc, skip the next ch-3, dc in each of next 3 dc **, repeat the directions between * and ** as many times
as needed across the row.
Row 5: Repeat row 3.
Row 6: Repeat row 4.
Additional Rows: Repeat Rows 3 and 4 for pattern, as many times as needed to reach the length that you want for your afghan.
Next to the Last Row: Repeat row 3.
Last Row: ch 1, sc in first dc, sc in each of next 2 dc * 2 sc in ch-3 space, sc in each of next 3 sts ** repeat the directions between * and ** across the row, end the row with 2 sc in last ch-3 space, sc in each of last 3 dc.
End off. Weave in ends.
Baby Afghan for Carman's baby
This pattern is in sets
of 12 chains. Meaning that 14 chain stitches between the repeat of the
pattern exists. In the afghan shown, there is 15 sets of 12 chain
stitches. At the end of the line, you will add 2 chains.
- Chain 12 = 1 set, repeat Chain 12 over and over until you get your desired width. This aghan has a total of 15 Sets. At the desired length, add 3 stitches.
- Skip 3 CH (counts as 1 DC), 1 DC into the next CH, * 1 DC into the next 3 CH, using next 2 stitches create DC2TOG, using next 2 stitches create DC2TOG, 1 DC into the next 3 CH, 2DC in the next 2 chain, 2 DC in the next 2 chain. Repeat from * all the way to the end. End last stitch with 2DC.
- CH 3 (counts as 1 DC), 1 DC into the 1st stitch. *1 DC into the next 3 stitches, Using next 2 stitches create DC2TOG, using next 2 stitches create DC2TOG. 1 DC into each of the next 3 stitches, Next two stitches get 2DC each, repeat from * all the way to the end. Final stitch ends with 2DC.
- Repeat step 2 and 3 until you get your desired length.
- Fasten off.
Wednesday, February 8, 2012
Wednesday, December 7, 2011
share a square blanket
chain 4 and join to form loop
Rd 1 chain 3 (counts as first dc) 2 dc, ch 2, * 3 dc, ch 2* 3 times join to first ch 3
Rd 2 chain 3 (counts as first dc) *dc in each dc (3 st total), in ch 2 sp for corner, 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc* 3 times
Rd 3 and all other rounds start with 3 ch counting as first dc, dc in each dc and 2 dc 2 ch 2 dc in each corner
To change color simply end first color at end of round, join the new color anywhere ( I like to do it in a different spot than where I ended to make working in te ends less noticable) following pattern.
For pictures of blankets I've made with this pattern
Baby Clouds Blankets (read
Monday, December 5, 2011
Soccosins
Sole Use Double Knitting Wool and 3.5mm hook.
Ch 19 slightly loosely.
Remember to work in the back loops.
Round 1 (wrong side): 1dc into 2nd ch from hook, 16dc, 3dc in last ch. Do not turn, work down other side of chain, 16dc, 2dc in same ch as first dc of round, sj. TURN. (38dc)
Round 2: 1ch, 1 dc in first st, 2dc in next st, 16dc, (2dc in next st) x 3, 16dc, 2dc in next st, 1 dc in next st (the same space as the first dc of the rnd), sj. TURN. (44dc)
Round 3: 1ch, 44dc, sj in top of first dc of round, TURN. (44dc)
Round 4: 1ch, (2dc in next st) x 3, 16dc, (2dc in next st) x 6, 16dc, (2dc in next st) x 3, sj. TURN. (56 dc)
Round 5: 1ch, 56dc, sj. TURN. (56dc)
Round 6: 1ch, (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st) x 3, 16dc, (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st) x 6, 16dc, (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st) x 3, sj. TURN. (68 dc)
Side of Foot Rounds 7 to 11 inclusive: 1ch, 68dc, sj. TURN. (68 dc)
Instep
Round 12: 1ch, 26dc, dec 8, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, cg, 25 dc, sj. TURN.
Round 13: 1ch, 34dc, cg, 25dc, sj. TURN. (60dc)
Round 14: 1ch, 22dc, dec 8, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, cg, 21 dc, sj. TURN.
Round 15: 1ch, 30dc, cg, 21dc, sj. TURN. (52dc) Ballet Slipper Stage complete.
Round 16: 1ch, 18dc, dec 8, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, cg, 17 dc, sj. TURN.
Round 17: 1ch, 26dc, cg, 17dc, sj. TURN. (44dc) Slipper Stage complete.
Round 18: 1ch, 14dc, dec 8, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, cg, 13 dc, sj. TURN.
Round 19: 1ch, 22dc, cg, 13dc, sj. TURN. (36dc) Soccasin Stage complete.
Cuff 1 is joined down the left side of the foot (looking down on it with the toe pointing away from you)
Remember to work in the back loops. 12ch.
Row 1: dc into back loop of second ch from hook, 9 dc, jdc, ss into next st on side of foot. TURN.
Row 2: 11dc.
Row 3: Insert hook from far-side to near-side in front loop of last dc worked (as it faces you). Turn the work clockwise. Yoh and pull through one loop on hook, yoh and pull through both loops on hook. 9 dc, 1jdc, ss into next st on side of foot. TURN.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have done 18 rows (you will be at the centre front of the foot). Fasten off and leave a tail to weave in at the end.
Cuff 2 is joined down the right side of the foot (looking down on it with the toe pointing away from you)
Row 1: Join in new yarn in the next free dc to the right of the centre back. Work 11 dc into 'back ridge' of beginning chain so that an outline stitch line is made up the centre back.
Rows 2 and 3 are like 3 and 2 for Cuff 1 but when you work into the dcs on the side of the foot you will work into the front loops as they face you. This will make the join symmetrical with the first half of the cuff.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have worked 18 rows. TURN. Join first three sts at bottom of cuff split together by slip stitching through the back loops on Cuff 2 and the front loops on Cuff 1. Fasten off and leave a tail to weave in at the end.
Cuff Trim Remember to work in the back loops.
Round 1: Join yarn at centre back of cuff and work around left side (if looking down on the foot with the toe pointing away from you). 1dc for each ridge and 1 dc for each valley to next corner - being careful to pick up just 1 thread at the top edge to prevent holes in the work. End on a valley. In same stitch work 1ch, 1dc (so that corner st has 1dc, 1ch, 1dc worked into it).
Work down split in cuff: 7 dc, 2ss (the 2nd ss goes where you joined the 3 sts at the bottom of the cuff split).
Work up the other side of the split in the cuff: 2ss (the 1st ss goes where joined the 3sts at the bottom of the cuff split), 7dc.
(1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into top of first ridge, work 1dc for each valley and 1dc for each ridge to the end of the round, sj in first dc of the round. TURN.
Round 2: 1ch, 1dc in each st to corner, in corner ch work (1dc, 1ch, 1dc).
For split in cuff: 8dc, ss, skip 2 sts, ss, 8dc.
(1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in corner ch, 1dc in each st to end of round. Break thread and join invisibly to first dc of the round. Tidy away all ends.
The Sock is joined down the left side of the foot (looking down on it with the toe pointing away from you)
It is important that you keep your slip stitches an even size. It is very easy to do them progressively tighter and tighter. Aim to give each ss the whole amount of thread required to go around the hook.
With the soccasin right side out fold the cuff completely down to expose, below where the cuff was attached, a line of loops at the top of the last ridge. You will attach the sock into these loops.
Use 4-ply baby yarn and a 3mm hook.
Attach the yarn at centre back (leaving a tail to tidy away later) and do 26 ch slightly loosely. TURN. If you want a longer or shorter sock change the starting chain.
Row 1: 1ss into the top loop of the 2nd ch from the hook, 24ss into the top loops of the chain, ss into the next loop on the inside of the foot, TURN.
Row 2: Skip the ss you did to join to the inside of the foot, 25ss through the back loops, 1ch, TURN.
Row 3: Do not skip 1st ss, 25ss through the backloops, ss into the next loop on the inside of the foot, TURN. Be careful not to the first ss of the row too tightly - you are going to be working into it on the way back.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 all the way around.
After you have done a few rows check that, when viewed from the outside, the beginning chain has the bottom half of the 'right side' of the chain facing outwards, not the bumpy back of the chain. If the bumps are facing outward you have joined incorrectly at the end of your first row and will not be able to get a really nice seam at the end.
After a few rows turn the whole soccasin inside out it will be easier to join in the sock. A couple of rows before you have gone all the way around turn it the right way out again.
When you have gone all the way around and have just done a Row 3 you will finish by doing a ss under the free bottom loops of your beginning chain where two loops cross and the corresponding back loop of your last row to make the final seam. Make sure you do go under two threads of the beginning chain and not just one.
Fasten off and tidy away all ends.
Make yourself another one to match and enjoy.
You might like to play with stripes on these soccasins - the socks especially will look effective because the stripes will be vertical (and so easy to do).
Have a little play with the sock. Isn't that beautifully elastic? It looks like a gorgeous 1x1 knitted ribbing but is much more elastic than any rib I've ever knitted, even crossed or 2x2. If you are a knitter you might like to consider substituting it for the usual knitted cuff on a sleeve.
Right Strap
Remember to work in the Back Loops unless otherwise instructed.
Row 1: Rejoin yarn 13 sts from the centre back on the right-hand side, 26dc, ch13. Turn. Adjust for length of strap here as you need.
Row 2: 1dc in Back Ridge of 2nd ch from hook and next 11 ch, 1dc in back loop of each st to end. Turn.
Row 3: 1dc in each stitch to end, 4ch, ss to bottom of the ch you did on Row 1 for the strap. Adjust these ch if you need for this button loop depending on the size of button you have.
Fasten off and tidy away ends.
Left Strap
Remember to work in the Back Loops unless otherwise instructed.
Fasten off at the end of the Slipper Stage of the Soccasin pattern.
Row 1: Ch 17, adjust length of strap if you need. The first 5 ch are used for the button loop so adjust for this now also depending on the size of your button. Starting 13 sts from the centre back on the right-hand side, 26dc. Turn.
Row 2: 1dc in each st until you reach the ch, 1dc in Back Ridge of each ch until 5 ch remain. Turn.
Row 3: 1dc in first st, remove hook, insert hook in 1st ch made on Row 1 and pull loop from the last dc through, 1dc in each st to end.
Fasten off and tidy away ends. Attach buttons of your choice.
Mary Jane Sock Top:
The sock is joined down the left side of the foot (looking down on it with the toe pointing away from you)
It is important that you keep your slip stitches an even size. It is very easy to do them progressively tighter and tighter. Aim to give each ss the whole amount of thread required to go around the hook.
With the slipper right side out fold the strap down to expose, below where it was attached, a line of loops at the top of the last ridge on the inside of the slipper. You will attach the sock into these loops.
Use 4-ply baby yarn and a 3mm hook.
Attach the yarn at centre back (leaving a tail to tidy away later) and do 26 ch slightly loosely. TURN. If you want a longer or shorter sock change the starting chain.
Row 1: 1ss into the top loop of the 2nd ch from the hook, 24ss into the top loops of the chain, ss into the next loop on the inside of the foot, TURN.
Row 2: Skip the ss you did to join to the inside of the foot, 25ss through the back loops, 1ch
Ch 19 slightly loosely.
Remember to work in the back loops.
Round 1 (wrong side): 1dc into 2nd ch from hook, 16dc, 3dc in last ch. Do not turn, work down other side of chain, 16dc, 2dc in same ch as first dc of round, sj. TURN. (38dc)
Round 2: 1ch, 1 dc in first st, 2dc in next st, 16dc, (2dc in next st) x 3, 16dc, 2dc in next st, 1 dc in next st (the same space as the first dc of the rnd), sj. TURN. (44dc)
Round 3: 1ch, 44dc, sj in top of first dc of round, TURN. (44dc)
Round 4: 1ch, (2dc in next st) x 3, 16dc, (2dc in next st) x 6, 16dc, (2dc in next st) x 3, sj. TURN. (56 dc)
Round 5: 1ch, 56dc, sj. TURN. (56dc)
Round 6: 1ch, (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st) x 3, 16dc, (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st) x 6, 16dc, (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st) x 3, sj. TURN. (68 dc)
Side of Foot Rounds 7 to 11 inclusive: 1ch, 68dc, sj. TURN. (68 dc)
Instep
Round 12: 1ch, 26dc, dec 8, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, cg, 25 dc, sj. TURN.
Round 13: 1ch, 34dc, cg, 25dc, sj. TURN. (60dc)
Round 14: 1ch, 22dc, dec 8, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, cg, 21 dc, sj. TURN.
Round 15: 1ch, 30dc, cg, 21dc, sj. TURN. (52dc) Ballet Slipper Stage complete.
Round 16: 1ch, 18dc, dec 8, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, cg, 17 dc, sj. TURN.
Round 17: 1ch, 26dc, cg, 17dc, sj. TURN. (44dc) Slipper Stage complete.
Round 18: 1ch, 14dc, dec 8, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, cg, 13 dc, sj. TURN.
Round 19: 1ch, 22dc, cg, 13dc, sj. TURN. (36dc) Soccasin Stage complete.
Cuff 1 is joined down the left side of the foot (looking down on it with the toe pointing away from you)
Remember to work in the back loops. 12ch.
Row 1: dc into back loop of second ch from hook, 9 dc, jdc, ss into next st on side of foot. TURN.
Row 2: 11dc.
Row 3: Insert hook from far-side to near-side in front loop of last dc worked (as it faces you). Turn the work clockwise. Yoh and pull through one loop on hook, yoh and pull through both loops on hook. 9 dc, 1jdc, ss into next st on side of foot. TURN.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have done 18 rows (you will be at the centre front of the foot). Fasten off and leave a tail to weave in at the end.
Cuff 2 is joined down the right side of the foot (looking down on it with the toe pointing away from you)
Row 1: Join in new yarn in the next free dc to the right of the centre back. Work 11 dc into 'back ridge' of beginning chain so that an outline stitch line is made up the centre back.
Rows 2 and 3 are like 3 and 2 for Cuff 1 but when you work into the dcs on the side of the foot you will work into the front loops as they face you. This will make the join symmetrical with the first half of the cuff.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have worked 18 rows. TURN. Join first three sts at bottom of cuff split together by slip stitching through the back loops on Cuff 2 and the front loops on Cuff 1. Fasten off and leave a tail to weave in at the end.
Cuff Trim Remember to work in the back loops.
Round 1: Join yarn at centre back of cuff and work around left side (if looking down on the foot with the toe pointing away from you). 1dc for each ridge and 1 dc for each valley to next corner - being careful to pick up just 1 thread at the top edge to prevent holes in the work. End on a valley. In same stitch work 1ch, 1dc (so that corner st has 1dc, 1ch, 1dc worked into it).
Work down split in cuff: 7 dc, 2ss (the 2nd ss goes where you joined the 3 sts at the bottom of the cuff split).
Work up the other side of the split in the cuff: 2ss (the 1st ss goes where joined the 3sts at the bottom of the cuff split), 7dc.
(1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into top of first ridge, work 1dc for each valley and 1dc for each ridge to the end of the round, sj in first dc of the round. TURN.
Round 2: 1ch, 1dc in each st to corner, in corner ch work (1dc, 1ch, 1dc).
For split in cuff: 8dc, ss, skip 2 sts, ss, 8dc.
(1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in corner ch, 1dc in each st to end of round. Break thread and join invisibly to first dc of the round. Tidy away all ends.
The Sock is joined down the left side of the foot (looking down on it with the toe pointing away from you)
It is important that you keep your slip stitches an even size. It is very easy to do them progressively tighter and tighter. Aim to give each ss the whole amount of thread required to go around the hook.
With the soccasin right side out fold the cuff completely down to expose, below where the cuff was attached, a line of loops at the top of the last ridge. You will attach the sock into these loops.
Use 4-ply baby yarn and a 3mm hook.
Attach the yarn at centre back (leaving a tail to tidy away later) and do 26 ch slightly loosely. TURN. If you want a longer or shorter sock change the starting chain.
Row 1: 1ss into the top loop of the 2nd ch from the hook, 24ss into the top loops of the chain, ss into the next loop on the inside of the foot, TURN.
Row 2: Skip the ss you did to join to the inside of the foot, 25ss through the back loops, 1ch, TURN.
Row 3: Do not skip 1st ss, 25ss through the backloops, ss into the next loop on the inside of the foot, TURN. Be careful not to the first ss of the row too tightly - you are going to be working into it on the way back.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 all the way around.
After you have done a few rows check that, when viewed from the outside, the beginning chain has the bottom half of the 'right side' of the chain facing outwards, not the bumpy back of the chain. If the bumps are facing outward you have joined incorrectly at the end of your first row and will not be able to get a really nice seam at the end.
After a few rows turn the whole soccasin inside out it will be easier to join in the sock. A couple of rows before you have gone all the way around turn it the right way out again.
When you have gone all the way around and have just done a Row 3 you will finish by doing a ss under the free bottom loops of your beginning chain where two loops cross and the corresponding back loop of your last row to make the final seam. Make sure you do go under two threads of the beginning chain and not just one.
Fasten off and tidy away all ends.
Make yourself another one to match and enjoy.
You might like to play with stripes on these soccasins - the socks especially will look effective because the stripes will be vertical (and so easy to do).
Have a little play with the sock. Isn't that beautifully elastic? It looks like a gorgeous 1x1 knitted ribbing but is much more elastic than any rib I've ever knitted, even crossed or 2x2. If you are a knitter you might like to consider substituting it for the usual knitted cuff on a sleeve.
Mary-Jane Style Instructions
Back Ridge: To work in the back ridge means to work through just the bump on the back of the chain. You turn the chain towards you to access it. Fasten off at the end of the Slipper Stage of the Soccasin pattern.Right Strap
Remember to work in the Back Loops unless otherwise instructed.
Row 1: Rejoin yarn 13 sts from the centre back on the right-hand side, 26dc, ch13. Turn. Adjust for length of strap here as you need.
Row 2: 1dc in Back Ridge of 2nd ch from hook and next 11 ch, 1dc in back loop of each st to end. Turn.
Row 3: 1dc in each stitch to end, 4ch, ss to bottom of the ch you did on Row 1 for the strap. Adjust these ch if you need for this button loop depending on the size of button you have.
Fasten off and tidy away ends.
Left Strap
Remember to work in the Back Loops unless otherwise instructed.
Fasten off at the end of the Slipper Stage of the Soccasin pattern.
Row 1: Ch 17, adjust length of strap if you need. The first 5 ch are used for the button loop so adjust for this now also depending on the size of your button. Starting 13 sts from the centre back on the right-hand side, 26dc. Turn.
Row 2: 1dc in each st until you reach the ch, 1dc in Back Ridge of each ch until 5 ch remain. Turn.
Row 3: 1dc in first st, remove hook, insert hook in 1st ch made on Row 1 and pull loop from the last dc through, 1dc in each st to end.
Fasten off and tidy away ends. Attach buttons of your choice.
Mary Jane Sock Top:
The sock is joined down the left side of the foot (looking down on it with the toe pointing away from you)
It is important that you keep your slip stitches an even size. It is very easy to do them progressively tighter and tighter. Aim to give each ss the whole amount of thread required to go around the hook.
With the slipper right side out fold the strap down to expose, below where it was attached, a line of loops at the top of the last ridge on the inside of the slipper. You will attach the sock into these loops.
Use 4-ply baby yarn and a 3mm hook.
Attach the yarn at centre back (leaving a tail to tidy away later) and do 26 ch slightly loosely. TURN. If you want a longer or shorter sock change the starting chain.
Row 1: 1ss into the top loop of the 2nd ch from the hook, 24ss into the top loops of the chain, ss into the next loop on the inside of the foot, TURN.
Row 2: Skip the ss you did to join to the inside of the foot, 25ss through the back loops, 1ch
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